May 8: Zocálo

Zocálo. That accent on the "a" seems... odd.

Zocálo had their soft opening on May 5, and readily admit that they're still working out the kinks. For a new place, that's to be expected. Their full opening is Wednesday, May 10. You should eat there. It's pricey, but very good.

Led by partners Greg Smith (Urban Visions, Cherry Street Coffee) and Joe Bisacca (Elysian Brewing), I'd worried two weeks ago that Zocálo would have the same lack of focus that I felt from its sister property, Cherry Street Public House. While Zocálo's menu doesn't have a laser focus, and isn't exclusively "modern Mexican as is currently being executed in Mexico City" as early reports indicated (rockfish?), it's also not diffused or scattershot.

For my first meal here, I did aim for central Mexico, ordering the chilaquiles: "tortilla chips with queso fresco, salsa rojo, and egg." I chose well -- the meal was delicious and filling. If everything else on the menu is this good, I might be spending way too much time here.

Full bar, really a requirement for anywhere in Pioneer Square

The tortilla chips were thick and a little heavy, making them easier to eat with a fork. Swimming in a light rojo sauce, they took time to soften up. That's fine -- who wants soggy tortilla chips? A lightly fried egg was delicately placed atop the chips. My first poke at it released the yolk. Diced avacado, mildly pickled (?) onions, and crumbled queso fresco were sprinkled across the top, and pepper was freshly ground tableside upon delivery. Coarse salt is served in small square tasting dishes. Let me be the first (and hopefully last) to point out that this isn't Margaritaville; don't go looking for lost salt shakers.

Chilaquiles

Individually, the chips, egg, and rojo sauce would be fine. Combined with the other flavors, they shine. Yes, it's become the hipster thing for restaurants to put a fried egg on everything they serve, but chilaquiles have been that way for centuries. Here, it really works.

The biggest downside to the dish was the temperature. Everything, including the egg, was lukewarm. Perhaps the chips were stored at room temperature, the red sauce was refrigerated, the bowl was chilly, and these took whatever heat the fried egg brought. If it's 20 or 30 degrees warmer, we've got near perfection.

Chandelier of keys

Service was solid. I ate at the bar, and never waited more than a few minutes for my drink, the check, or answers to my questions. Yes, there's a few kinks (iced tea isn't brewing yet, a TV is struggling for a signal), but those will work themselves out soon. The menu says that the larger plates are served with tortillas, but the chilaquiles aren't. When I asked, however, they were offered anyway. Made in-house, they were warm and comforting -- and heavy.

The space is large and, well, spacious, and has one of the largest ceiling fans I've ever seen. Light fixtures are artistic -- pages of a novel or old keys soften and reflect the bulb.

The happy hour menu will come out on Wednesday, May 10. I'll update this post with that info when I see it.

Also, it's on the expensive side, even for Pioneer Square. Craft cocktails are $12-$15. Glasses of wine start at $9. My entreé was $14. Overall, though, it's a good, good choice with a promising future. I see at least three more things on their menu I'm looking forward to trying, including the chicken Milanese.

Zocálo
200 Occidental Ave. S.
Chilaquiles, corn tortillas, and Diet Coke, $22.22

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